Foraging revival grows as wild-food enthusiasts reconnect with nature

PORTSMOUTH, N.H. — Foraging is experiencing a revival, as people seek to reconnect with nature, eat locally, and shrink their environmental footprint. Iris Phoebe Weaver, a longtime herbalist and foraging guide from Massachusetts, leads nature walks that teach safe and sustainable harvesting. Standing barefoot in a patch of dandelions, Weaver lists the edible and medicinal possibilities of the humble plant, including a dandelion aperitif she recently crafted by infusing flowers in vodka with orange peel and sugar. "I just picked a bunch of dandelion flowers yesterday and threw them in vodka with some orange peel and some sugar, and that’s my dandelion aperitif," she said. "That will make a lovely mixed drink at some point."

Weaver is part of a broader uptick in foraging that experts say benefits ecosystems; the practice ranges from urban lots to backcountry forests. Enthusiasts share knowledge on social media, and experienced foragers offer training for safe and sustainable harvesting. The appeal includes budget-conscious folk who see foraging as free food, as well as environmental-minded cooks who see it as a way to reduce the supply chain footprint. "There is just an amazing amount of food that is around us," Weaver said. "There is so much abundance that we don’t even understand." The trend is supported by university extension programs reporting rising interest in foraging mushrooms, with field days and talks reaching attendance caps in several states. Gina Buelow, a natural resources field specialist with the Iowa University Extension Program, said mushroom programs have drawn a wide cross-section of participants. "Typically, I would get usually older women for a master gardener or pollinator garden class. That audience still shows up to these mushrooms programs, but they bring their husbands. And a lot of people between the ages of 20 and 30 years old are really interested in this topic, as well," she said. Foragers can look for wild foods wherever land is accessible, with permission from landowners or proper permits from parks, and some groups publish maps that highlight free picking spots.

On the culinary side, chefs are embracing foraging as a way to connect diners with locally sourced flavors. Evan Mallet, chef and owner of the Black Trumpet Bistro in Portsmouth, said foraging is an ancient concept making a comeback. "Our culture has moved far away from foraging and is fortunately coming back into it now." Mallet opened the restaurant nearly 20 years ago and uses foods foraged from around Portsmouth. He said he hopes more people will continue to learn about foraging, and encouraged those worried about picking something poisonous to find a mentor. "I think the dangers of foraging are baked into most people’s brains and souls," he said. "We as an animal know that there are certain things that when they smell a certain way or look a certain way, they can be encoded with a message that we shouldn’t eat those things." Mallet named his restaurant after the wild foraged mushroom as a reminder. Over the years, he's incorporated Black Trumpet mushrooms into dozens of dishes throughout the menu — even ice cream. Other menu items have included foraged sea kelp in lobster tamales, as well as using Ulva lactuca, a type of sea lettuce, in salads. "It’s nothing that I necessarily seek out, but I kind of love it when it’s on a menu," said M.J. Blanchette, a longtime patron of Black Trumpet, speaking to the foraged dishes available at Black Trumpet and other restaurants. She recently ordered the meatballs with foraged sweet fern from Mallet's restaurant, a feature she says elevated both the taste and experience of consuming the dish.

Foraging remains a growing social and educational movement. Advocates say it broadens access to fresh food, promotes outdoor activity, and encourages people to think differently about where their meals come from. Yet safety and sustainability remain central concerns, with experts urging proper identification and mindful harvesting, particularly for mushrooms and coastal species. As communities, chefs, and hikers alike explore these wild pantry possibilities, foraging is increasingly treated not as a fringe hobby but as part of a broader shift toward living more closely with the land.