Carbone London opens with high prices and high drama, critics say food misses the mark

Carbone, the New York Italian-American restaurant famous for celebrity crowds and a steep price tag, has opened its first European outpost in Mayfair, London. Founded by chef Mario Carbone with Jeff Zalaznick and Rich Torrisi, the Mayfair chapter brings the brand’s gloss and drama to the capital’s dining scene. The London menu mirrors the starched glamour of the New York flagship and carries the same price markers that have defined the chain.

That price point is evident from the London menu, with dishes such as a £98 lasagne among other high-ticket items. The list includes a £126 New York Strip, £88 Dover sole piccata, and £79 Whole Branzino. Critics from The Times, The Standard and The Infatuation described the food as lacking flavor or personality. A £67 veal marsala was described as flavorless, a £54 lobster ravioli as characterless, and the £29 spicy rigatoni vodka as simply a tomato-based dish. The chicken scarpariello at £46 drew particular ire from one reviewer who called it inedible; another noted the room felt more about spectacle than sustenance. The Mayfair location places the restaurant in a building near Claridge’s and the Rosewood, reinforcing the brand’s luxury image.

Critics also noted the dining experience. The Infatuation’s Jake Missing described the dining as silly, praising the spicy rigatoni while noting other dishes felt heavy; he described the majority of the menu as being served on a trolley by a troupe of sing-song servers and suggested the venue functions more as show than restaurant. The Times and Evening Standard reviews described service as patchy, and one critic compared the mood to a high-end chain rather than a standalone dining room despite the glamour.

London’s version includes a British twist. Co-founder Jeff Zalaznick has said British produce would be central, with dishes like a £51 scallops rosmarino from Scotland planned for the menu and a plan to replace tiramisu with a custard-based dessert. Lighter options include £24 Sicilian beets, £29 Prosciutto and Mozzarella, and a £27 Fettuccine con Funghi. In keeping with the brand’s Italian-American heritage, stars and theatre remain central, alongside a robust set of classic dishes.

More premium mains include a £126 New York Strip, £77 Double Lamb Chops and £79 Whole Branzino. The menu also features favourites such as the spicy rigatoni vodka and a buttered calamari dish. Interiors designed by Ken Fulk mix marble mosaics, an oak-and-zinc bar, red damask walls, and artworks by Ai Weiwei, Julian Schnabel and others. Diners are guided by servers known as captains through courses, with tableside presentations adding to the sense of performance.

Carbone London opened on September 17 in a building that formerly housed the American Embassy, just steps from Claridge’s. The brand says the London project reflects its New York roots while adapting to British tastes and sourcing local produce. The opening drew a notable crowd, including Vas J Morgan and Simon Reuben, signaling the capital’s appetite for the glamour and drama the restaurant promises. Whether the food itself will win over critics remains to be seen, but the showman ethos—“a play, not a restaurant,” as one founder has put it—appears to be fully on display.