Carbone London opens with £98 lasagne as critics brand food 'inedible' and service 'patchy'

Carbone, the trendy New York Italian-American restaurant beloved by celebrities such as Justin and Hailey Bieber and Rihanna, has opened its first European outpost in London’s Mayfair, bringing its signature blend of high prices, showmanship and glamour to the capital. The new outpost sits near Claridge’s and the Chancery Rosewood, extending the brand’s reach beyond the United States.

The London opening has drawn intense attention from restaurant critics, many of whom say the food undercuts the hype. The Times, The Standard and Infatuation were blunt in their assessments, with dishes described as 'inedible' or 'silly' and service labeled 'patchy' at the outset. The Times’ Charlotte Ivers flagged the £46 chicken scarpariello as 'inedible,' noting that the mushrooms’ texture was 'viscerally disgusting' and that even a tableside Caesar salad, priced at £31, felt more like theatre than sustenance. She also highlighted the spectacle of the dining room, saying the venue is not primarily a place to eat. The Standard’s David Ellis found the £67 veal marsala 'absent of flavour' and the £54 lobster ravioli 'characterless,' while the famous £29 spicy rigatoni vodka was described as being coated in a tomato sauce that reminded him of 'spaghetti hoops.'

Infatuation critic Jake Missing described the overall experience as 'silly'—though he allowed that the spicy rigatoni 'stands up,' and that a butter-sauce calamari dish was 'virtually inedible'—with much of the menu delivered by a theatrical trolley as singing staff move between tables. The critic summed up that Carbone London feels more like a performance than a traditional restaurant.

Carbone London marks the brand’s first European outpost. It is founded by chef and restaurateur Mario Carbone, along with partners Jeff Zalaznick and Rich Torrisi. The original Carbone opened in Greenwich Village in 2013 and quickly became a magnet for celebrities, drawing Justin and Hailey Bieber, Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, nearly every member of the Kardashian clan, Adele and others. The restaurant’s Michelin Guide entry has described it as 'ever-so-stylish' with a 'striking interior and smartly dressed servers who work the floor with a bit of flirt and flair.' London critics also noted that the service on opening day did not quite live up to the brand’s famed reputation—an issue some reviewers described as the result of a new outpost still finding its footing.

Carbone London is positioned as a European expansion that leans into its New York glamour while tweaking its approach for the London market. Co-founders have repeatedly framed it as more than a restaurant: it is an experience—part dinner, part performance. The menu, while steeped in the brand’s Italian-American classics, also foregrounds British ingredients and contemporary tweaks. A Sunday roast, for example, is referenced as an expected, audience-pleasing feature, reflecting the city’s culinary sensibilities.

On the menu, diners will find a mix of price points that underscore Carbone’s luxury positioning. Starters include a £51 scallops rosmarino featuring diver scallops from Scotland, while lighter options such as Sicilian beets (£24) and Prosciutto and Mozzarella (£29) sit alongside more indulgent dishes. The tiramisu, long a house signature since the New York days, will be replaced in London with a custard-based dessert, according to the restaurant’s press materials. Heavier mains push well into the £100s: a £126 New York Strip, £79 Whole Branzino and £77 Double Lamb Chops sit among other substantial bets, with Dover sole piccata at £88 and a range of shared plates and classic Italian-American preparations.

The room, designed by Ken Fulk, reinforces Carbone’s signature blend of old-money glamour and modern theatre. Patrons are greeted by marble mosaic floors, embroidered curtains and an oak-and-zinc bar, with walls lined by red damask and curated artworks from names such as Ai Weiwei, Julian Schnabel and David Salle. The service model remains performative: a troupe of servers circulates with a trolley, while staff—referred to as 'captains'—lead diners through courses as the room dials up the drama. Flambéed desserts, such as bananas set alight at the table, are among the moments the brand has used to cultivate its showmanship.

In material terms, the London project is a statement about place as much as palate. In interviews with the Financial Times, co-founder Jeff Zalaznick argued that London’s Mayfair location—within reach of Claridge’s and the city’s luxury hotel cluster—was essential to the concept: 'We can’t open more than 10 minutes’ walk from Claridge’s,' he said, adding that 'we spend all our time in Mayfair' because the price point and the experience demand a certain audience. He described the new space as the right corner of London for a New York–style Italian-American proposition, noting that the building it occupies once housed the American Embassy and carries a sense of historical significance linked to the brand’s identity.

The opening drew a range of high-society attendees, including Vas J Morgan, Simon Reuben and members of other prominent families, underscoring the project’s role as both dining destination and social event. Still, early reviews suggest a gulf between the glamour and the gustatory experience, at least at launch. Critics are balancing the spectacle with the culinary expectations that defined Carbone’s New York days, and it remains to be seen how the London menu and service will evolve as the outpost settles in.