Gucci debuts Demna Gvasalia collection via film at Milan Fashion Week as Gwyneth Paltrow leads logo-heavy look
Demna Gvasalia unveils his first Gucci collection through a Spike Jonze–directed film during Milan Fashion Week, drawing a star-studded front row as the brand pursues a sales rebound.
Gucci unveiled its latest collection not on a traditional runway, but in a 30-minute film directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, premiered on the first day of Milan Fashion Week. Demna Gvasalia presented his first collection for Gucci through the screen, a move aimed at reigniting interest after Gucci's parent company, Kering, reported a 25 percent drop in sales in the second quarter. The film, which featured a star-studded audience including Gwyneth Paltrow, Demi Moore, Serena Williams and Lila Moss, accompanied a separate physical presentation in Milan that showcased 37 looks earlier in the day as part of a drop titled La Famiglia. Moore, who plays Barbara Gucci in The Tiger, was among the celebrities watching the screening.
The collection itself leans into bold branding and a revived appetite for subversive glamour, with models and guests responding to a push for a stronger brand story. Among the looks shown in the earlier drop, Lila Moss appeared as Ragazza in a black crocodile print leather mini skirt paired with knee-length boots, while Gwyneth Paltrow appeared as La VIP in a pussy-bow blouse, an A-line skirt and knee-high boots, all embellished with Gucci logos.
The show has supporters who view Gvasalia as a marketing innovator capable of generating widespread conversation, and critics who question whether the emphasis on spectacle could eclipse the clothing. Gucci's sales decline prompted comments from industry observers that the brand needs a new narrative to drive demand at a time when luxury houses are tightening wallets. The strategy echoes debates over whether the line between fashion design and entertainment has become the primary product.
Some observers compare Gucci's current direction to the Tom Ford era, which in the mid-1990s delivered sexier silhouettes and logo-forward luxury. Whether the current approach marks a lasting shift or a moment of bold theater remains to be seen, as analysts watch how the collection performs with customers and retailers in the weeks ahead.