express gazette logo
The Express Gazette
Sunday, January 25, 2026

Michelin-starred chef sparks authenticity row by adding milk to Bolognese

Chef Paul Foster defends milk-in-Bolognese method as traditional; video stirs debate over Italian cooking authenticity

Culture & Entertainment 4 months ago
Michelin-starred chef sparks authenticity row by adding milk to Bolognese

A Michelin-starred chef has sparked an authenticity row after adding milk to his Bolognese recipe, then claiming it is authentic. Chef Paul Foster, based in Coventry, posted a video on social media outlining 'how to cook a Bolognese properly' that has drawn nearly two million views. Foster, who ran Salt in Stratford-upon-Avon for eight years and frequently appears on BBC Saturday Kitchen, argued that there is no single authentic recipe, but that his version reflects his kitchen experience, nostalgia and examinations of Bologna's original recipes.

He described a method starting with sofrito of onion, celery and carrot with thyme and garlic, then equal parts minced beef and pork, red wine and tomato purée, tinned tomatoes, and chicken stock, simmered for about three hours until thick and glossy. Then he added a 'good measure' of milk, calling it a 'game changer' for creaminess without cream. He said the dish should be served with flat pasta like pappardelle or tagliatelle. He asserted that 'this recipe is based on my own culinary knowledge, my nostalgia, and my experiences with some of the original recipes in Bologna'.

Reaction was mixed. Viewers flooded the comments with skepticism that real Bolognese includes milk. Foster responded by saying critics were mistaken, and that some followers argued milk is used in some authentic versions. Others suggested that milk can tenderize meat; Foster clarified that milk does not tenderize the meat, but is used to cream the sauce. Some commenters praised the approach, including those who said the dish looked appealing to Italian tastes.

Culinary authorities note that ragù alla Bolognese has many variants and a long history. The dish originated in Northern Italy, with Imola and Bologna cited in historical records. The Accademia Italiana della Cucina published an official guideline in 1982 that calls for milk or cream halfway through the recipe; the guidance was updated in 2023 to retain an 'optional' glass of milk to balance acidity. The recipe's method emphasizes slow simmering and the use of ingredients such as beef, pork, pancetta, wine, tomatoes, tomato paste, stock, and olive oil; the milk is presented as optional rather than mandatory.

Spaghetti Bolognese, common in the United Kingdom, is not regarded as the authentic Italian version, which more often uses tagliatelle. The current official note suggests that if the sauce is served with dry pasta, cream may be added. The recipe provides serving guidance and variations, underscoring that even with a long tradition there is room for interpretation.

This episode highlights ongoing tensions between traditional culinary practice and contemporary experimentation within culture and entertainment. It shows how social media amplifies debates over authenticity, provoking responses from home cooks, professional chefs, and Italian culinary institutions alike.


Sources