No. 21 collection brings lightness to heavy times

MILAN — Alessandro Dell'Acqua's No. 21 collection for next spring and summer, presented Wednesday during Milan Fashion Week, is a study in lightness, a hedge against heavy times. 'I believe that in moments of heaviness and uncertainty, sometimes taking a moment of lightheartedness and clearing your mind a bit can be good for you,' Dell'Acqua said backstage. 'This is why I made it so light.'

Chiffon petals cut into or sewn as delicate ruffles moved with the wearer, while collars rustled softly around the neck. The designer pinned wilted flowers out of chiffon to garments, 'as if forgotten by time.' The lightness allowed him to layer generously: plaid kilts underpinned by petticoat layers; prairie skirts with a big hem ruffle tied prettily at the waist; and silken slip dresses worn one atop another.

Behind the softness, the collection juxtaposed feminine silks and sheers with wide masculine denim trousers and gray men's sweaters tied around the neck in the Milanese bourgeoisie style. 'This is about romance, but also about modernity,' he said.

Collectors saw a balance of romance and modernity, with No. 21 continuing Dell'Acqua's signature mix of delicate fabrics and practical separates, designed for movement through spring and summer.