Dermatologist names and shames popular skincare products he NEVER recommends: 'They ruin your skin'

A leading dermatologist has warned that some commonly available high-street skincare products can damage the skin. Dr Sina Ghadiri, a consultant dermatologist and founder of Sinaesthetics, told the Daily Mail that there are items he would never recommend to his clients—or use himself. The warning comes as shoppers hunt for a clearer, glowing complexion and often reach for bargains at drugstore shelves.

Among the four products he singled out are St. Ives Apricot Scrub, a facial cleansing brush, blackhead strips and makeup removal wipes. He said these items can be packed with irritants or cause damage to the skin barrier, leaving it more exposed to inflammation and irritation. The guidance aligns with a broader push toward gentler, evidence-based skincare routines that minimize aggressive scrubbing and harsh chemicals.

St. Ives Apricot Scrub has long been a fixture in teenage and young-adult routines, but Dr. Ghadiri argues that the walnut shell particles are too abrasive for many skin types. He explained that the scrub can create uncontrolled microtears in the skin, which compromises the outer protective barrier and can worsen inflammation, especially in acne-prone or sensitive skin. He urged consumers to seek gentler exfoliants that contain alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) and smooth the skin without trauma.

Cleansing brushes, once hailed as a game changer for deep cleansing, are also on the avoid list. The devices can cause flare-ups of acne or rosacea, according to Dr. Ghadiri. He noted that washing with a cloth or just using fingertips remains effective and reduces the risk of over-exfoliation. He warned that cleansing brushes tend to over-exfoliate and disrupt the skin barrier, with repetitive mechanical scrubbing leading to irritation, redness and potential rashes. For cleansing, a gentle cleanser used with fingertips is safer and just as effective.

Blackhead strips may deliver a momentary sense of satisfaction, but they can do long-term harm. Dr. Ghadiri warned that these strips physically remove the top layer of skin, damaging the barrier and sometimes causing broken capillaries. They do not prevent blackheads from returning. Instead, he recommends a salicylic acid product, which penetrates oilier pores and helps dissolve the grime over time, offering a more effective and skin-friendly approach.

Makeup removal wipes, a staple for many after a long day, are another target. Dr. Ghadiri emphasized that taking the time to remove makeup properly is essential. Wipes can be harsh due to irritant alcohols and may leave behind residue, while the rubbing action can irritate delicate areas around the eyes and accelerate aging changes. A gentle oil or micellar water cleanse is a better option for most people and can be followed by a regular cleanser.

The dermatologist stressed that the criticisms are not about luxury versus drugstore alone but about product design, formulation and how aggressively a product interacts with the skin barrier. He encouraged shoppers to look for evidence-based exfoliants (AHAs and BHAs), to use cleansing methods that minimize mechanical aggression, and to choose removal methods that preserve moisture and minimize irritation. The emphasis on gentler, scientifically supported approaches reflects a broader trend in consumer skincare toward products that respect the skin’s natural barrier while delivering effective cleansing and exfoliation.