Dermatologist warns anti‑ageing products may accelerate ageing in under‑25s

A London consultant dermatologist has warned that some products marketed as "anti‑ageing" may be worsening skin condition when used by people under 25, and urged consumers to adopt simpler, age‑appropriate routines.

Dr. Emma Amoafo‑Mensah said an increasing number of younger people are using tonics, cleansers and creams intended to reverse visible signs of ageing. She joined a campaign with a British beauty brand called "Jellyfish Sting Serum" aimed at countering confusion around which products are appropriate for different ages and discouraging the use of hype‑driven, strong active ingredients by those with younger skin.

Dr. Amoafo‑Mensah highlighted common classes of products that can do more harm than good if misused by younger skin, including potent chemical exfoliants and retinoids. These ingredients are effective for treating established signs of photoageing when prescribed and used correctly, but they can cause irritation, barrier damage and inflammation if overused or applied without supervision, she said. Skin barrier disruption and chronic inflammation are factors that can contribute to visible ageing over time.

Publicly available data have shown a rise in younger consumers buying products marketed for wrinkle reduction and skin renewal. News organisations reported last year that more people under 25 were purchasing anti‑ageing tonics, creams and cleansers, a shift dermatologists and industry observers have linked to social‑media trends and influencer marketing.

The campaign Dr. Amoafo‑Mensah is taking part in stresses that not every product labeled "anti‑ageing" is suitable for every age group. It encourages consumers to consider milder, preventive measures for younger skin and to reserve stronger actives for those who need them or who are under professional guidance.

Dermatologists typically point to sun protection and gentle maintenance as the most evidence‑backed ways to prevent premature skin ageing. Regular use of broad‑spectrum sunscreen, avoiding excessive ultraviolet exposure, maintaining hydration with suitable moisturisers and using mild cleansers can reduce cumulative sun damage and preserve the skin's barrier function. For persistent concerns or when stronger treatments are considered, specialists recommend consultation with a dermatologist to determine the right timing, formulation and regimented use of actives such as retinoids or acids.

Industry and clinical experts note that the increased availability of high‑strength formulations over the counter, combined with trend‑driven purchasing, has made inappropriate use more likely. Over‑exfoliation and unsupervised use of potent ingredients can lead to redness, flaking, sensitivity and post‑inflammatory pigmentation, conditions that often require medical management and can affect appearance in the longer term.

Dr. Amoafo‑Mensah and campaign partners also aim to improve consumer understanding of product labels and realistic expectations. She advised avoiding ‘‘hype’’ solutions and instead focusing on simple, consistent routines tailored to age and skin type. Patch testing new products, introducing one active at a time, and stopping use if persistent irritation occurs were recommended practical steps.

Consumers who are uncertain about which products are appropriate for their age or skin concerns are encouraged to seek professional advice from licensed dermatologists or qualified skincare clinicians. In clinical practice, decisions about introducing stronger treatments are typically based on medical history, skin type, degree of sun damage and tolerance, rather than marketing claims alone.

As social media continues to shape beauty purchasing, dermatologists say clearer messaging about age‑appropriate skincare and the risks of unsupervised use of potent actives could help reduce avoidable skin damage and long‑term consequences associated with misuse.