Dermatologists say your skin care routine should start with three essentials

Dermatologists are urging consumers to simplify their skin care routines and focus on three core elements — a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer and a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30 — saying many viral products and elaborate regimens add cost without clear benefit and can sometimes do more harm than good.

“Social media is having such a huge influence on what we’re using in our skin, and every individual is acting like their own clinician and trying to diagnose their own skin type and experiment with different regimens,” said Dr. Kathleen Suozzi, a professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. “And really, the main overarching thing is that skincare regimens have become way overcomplicated.”

Dermatologists note that facial skin is thinner and more delicate than skin elsewhere on the body, so it often requires a gentler approach and tailored products depending on whether a person has oily, dry or sensitive skin. Protecting the face from ultraviolet radiation, they say, is the most important single step in preventing common complaints such as premature wrinkles, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and dark scarring from acne.

“The truth of the matter is, nine out of 10 skin care concerns on the face that people come to see me for are worsened by UV radiation from the sun,” said Dr. Oyetewa Asempa, director of the Skin of Color Clinic at Baylor College of Medicine.

Retinoids and chemical exfoliants can be effective tools for addressing aging and texture concerns, but dermatologists caution against early or improper use. Retinol and prescription retinoids can help stimulate collagen production and reduce fine lines, but many experts recommend delaying regular retinoid use until around age 30 to avoid increased irritation in younger skin.

Physical scrubs that use beads, salts or sugars to rub away dead skin can be overly abrasive for facial skin and risk microtears; chemical exfoliation with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) is often recommended as a gentler alternative. Consumers adding AHAs or BHAs to a routine should apply sunscreen consistently, since these ingredients can increase sun sensitivity. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration requires certain ingredient levels to be declared on retail chemical exfoliant products, but those labeling rules do not apply to stronger chemical peels administered professionally.

Several current trends circulating on social media drew particular criticism from the dermatologists. Beef tallow, sometimes promoted as an ultra-hydrating natural product, was singled out as unnecessary by Dr. Asempa: “I want you to leave the beef tallow with the cows.” Light therapy masks have surged in popularity but are often described as over-hyped. Research suggests red-light therapy may offer modest benefits for collagen production, but benefits are limited and require frequent, repeated use to show any effect.

“You need to be using these devices a few times a week for them to have any benefit, if at all,” said Dr. Suozzi, who added that devices are “not something that’s going to be transformative” for most people’s skin.

Cost is not a reliable indicator of product performance, dermatologists emphasized. “Price does not equal efficacy, and it does not equal better results,” said Dr. Jordan Lim, a dermatology professor at Emory University School of Medicine. Many over-the-counter products contain the same active ingredients across a wide price range, he said, meaning that cheaper options can be as effective as expensive celebrity-endorsed creams for many concerns.

Dermatologists advise people to reduce the number of redundant or potentially irritating products in their regimen and to prioritize sun protection and hydration. Individuals with persistent or severe skin problems such as cystic acne, significant pigmentation issues or inflammatory dermatoses are encouraged to seek evaluation from a dermatologist rather than relying on social media diagnoses and home experiments.

A simplified, evidence-based routine that addresses cleansing, moisturizing and sun protection can reduce the risk of irritation, limit interactions between active ingredients, and target the most common drivers of facial skin aging and discoloration. For consumers considering stronger treatments — prescription retinoids, chemical peels, or at-home devices — experts recommend consulting a dermatologist to assess risks, benefits and appropriate use for a person’s specific skin type and medical history.