EU bans common nail polish ingredient over fertility concerns; salons warn prices may rise

The European Union has prohibited the use of trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, commonly known as TPO, in all cosmetic products effective Sept. 1 after regulatory reviews and studies linked the chemical to potential long‑term fertility issues.

EU member states and countries that mirror its regulations, including Norway, have been instructed to stop offering TPO‑based gel nail polishes and to safely dispose of existing stock. The move affects manufacturers, distributors and the thousands of salons that use gel systems cured by ultraviolet light.

TPO is a photoinitiator used in many gel formulas to accelerate curing under UV or LED lamps and to help polishes harden and retain colour and gloss. It is not present in every gel product, but it is widely used because it speeds drying and contributes to the durability of manicures.

Manufacturers must reformulate products that rely on TPO and remove the ingredient from supply chains serving the EU market. Salon owners and industry observers said the reformulation process, disposal of affected stock and the search for effective TPO‑free alternatives are likely to raise costs for businesses and consumers.

Karina Dubinina, founder of the Chelsea salon Backstage, said her business is preparing to test TPO‑free products and adjust price lists. "We see that many brands are already preparing themselves for the law change," she said. Backstage is one of more than 10,500 beauty salons across the United Kingdom that could face additional supply and pricing pressures if the same restrictions are applied outside the EU.

The ban does not immediately affect the United Kingdom or the United States. Industry insiders in the UK, however, told trade press they expect regulators to consider comparable restrictions and that a similar ban could come into force in the UK by late 2026. Retailers and brands selling to multiple markets are already assessing reformulation timelines to avoid disruptions.

Regulators cited scientific evidence linking TPO exposure to reproductive toxicity in animal studies and raised concerns about potential human health effects. While the European decision focuses on TPO, authorities and manufacturers noted that product safety assessments generally consider the balance of efficacy, exposure and available alternatives.

The popularity of gel manicures, which can last weeks compared with traditional nail polish, means millions of consumers and salon workers are affected. Consumers often seek the long‑wear finish that gel systems provide, while technicians favour formulations that cure quickly and maintain colour quality.

Salon owners said the immediate operational challenge will be identifying TPO‑free formulas that match current performance and that are compatible with existing curing lamps. Some alternatives are already being rolled out by brands, but salon operators said supply chain adjustments and possible price increases are likely as demand shifts.

Trade groups and manufacturers have said they will comply with the EU requirement and support salons during the transition. Some brands indicated they would phase out TPO in EU formulations ahead of the deadline to manage inventory and avoid sudden supply shortages.

Regulators and industry bodies will continue to monitor product safety data and the availability of alternatives. Consumers seeking gel manicures are advised to check product ingredient lists and speak with salon staff about the formulations in use.

As the reformulation process unfolds, salons and suppliers in affected markets will balance compliance with regulatory deadlines, the costs of disposal and restocking, and efforts to maintain the standards customers expect from gel manicures.