Experts warn at-home microneedling devices can scar you for life

A high-profile TikTok moment prompted renewed scrutiny this season over at-home microneedling devices, with experts warning that popular DIY tools can scar or permanently damage skin when misused. Celebrity face yoga instructor Koko Hayashi, who has hundreds of thousands of followers, posted a summer video showing a microneedling pen moving across her face. In the clip she described the moment as she approached the eye area: “I think I did too much, so it’s bleeding a little bit.” The post underscored a broader trend: do-it-yourself dermal stamping and needling devices that promise smoother, firmer skin at a fraction of professional costs.

The practice relies on creating tiny, controlled skin injuries to trigger a healing response and collagen production. However, the devices marketed for home use differ substantially from the professional tools used in clinics, and safety experts say the two should not be confused. Professional microneedling devices typically employ longer needles, are used under clinical supervision, and come with regulated protocols. By contrast, at-home devices generally feature needles under 0.3 millimeters and are marketed for superficial results rather than true collagen remodeling. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration has cleared certain medical devices with longer needles for clinical use, but those products are not approved for home settings. The FDA’s stance is that consumer, home-use tools are not regulated in the same way, and aftercare products and instructions are not standardized for at-home use.

Three main types of DIY devices dominate the market: stamps, rollers and pens. Dermal stamps are small-head tools used for targeted areas; rollers cover larger surface areas with a rolling wheel of tiny needles; and dermapens resemble the professional devices but are sold to consumers at much lower price points. Prices vary widely: stamps can cost about $15 to $30, rollers $10 to $25, and dermapens typically range from $80 to $200 per unit. Experts warn that cheaper pens may deliver inconsistent punctures or require more aggressive technique, which can lead to adverse outcomes. Limor Weinberg, a board-certified nurse practitioner and aesthetic injector, notes that many at-home tools are shallow and cannot prompt meaningful collagen remodeling; even so, they may offer only short-term benefits like improved absorption of serums or temporary glow. “Most at-home tools are very shallow, usually around 0.2 to 0.3 millimeters, which can’t cause real collagen remodeling,” she told The Post. “Shallow at-home needling might help skincare absorb a bit better and give a short-term glow, but it will not deliver the same collagen building, scar improvement or tightening that people see in professional treatments.”

The rapid, high-speed puncturing of professional pens is designed to produce purposeful injuries that rebuild collagen, a result not easily replicated with consumer devices. Weinberg adds that the affordability and accessibility of DIY tools may tempt consumers into thinking all devices are equal, a belief she says is incorrect: “If all pens were equal, believe me, every injector in the country would save the money.”

A key reason DIY microneedling can go wrong is technique. Inflammation after a session typically resolves within 24 to 48 hours, but improper depth or excessive pressure can cause longer-lasting issues, including track marks, widened pores, persistent redness or scarring. The risk is not limited to surface damage; post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) can occur, particularly in people with medium to darker skin tones. PIH is often harder to treat than wrinkles, according to experts.

Infections are another major concern. Achieving medical-grade sterility at home is difficult, and devices that are reused, shared or used on infected skin can create entry points for bacteria. Pus-filled bumps, pain, warmth, oozing and expanding redness are warning signs, doctors say. Some individuals may also experience an allergic reaction to metals used in needles, especially nickel, provoking redness, itching and swelling. Sensitive-skinned users are cautioned against applying harsh serums, acids or fragrances during or after needling, which can trigger contact dermatitis or worsen irritation.

For consumers determined to microneedle at home, experts offer several precautions. First, consult a dermatologist before attempting at-home needling. “A big part of why in-office microneedling works so well is the consultation,” Weinberg said. “We are looking at your skin type, past treatments, pigment risk, active conditions, medications and how your skin heals. Sometimes the best choice is not microneedling at all, and that is something a device you bought online will never tell you.” People with active acne, inflammation or infection should avoid DIY sessions. Second, choose a reputable brand with clear instructions and easily replaceable or single-use heads. Avoid devices that look cheaply made, have bent needles or use harsh serums. Third, maintain a clean technique: clean skin before needling, avoid applying it over makeup or self-tanner, and use gentle, non-irritating post-treatment products such as basic moisturizers rather than acids or retinoids. Fourth, go slowly. The conventional wisdom among clinicians is to approach at-home needling with extreme caution, prioritizing skin safety over speed. Weinberg emphasizes a conservative philosophy: “Be gentle and kind to your skin.” Finally, discontinue use if severe burning, significant oozing, spreading redness or fever occurs, and never share devices with others to reduce infection risk.

The ongoing social-media trend has amplified consumer interest in at-home microneedling, but experts warn that the hype should be tempered by safety concerns. Dr. Kseniya Kobets, director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care, cautions that at-home devices lack standardized regulation, and “what to put on afterwards has not been made clear to consumers.” She also notes the importance of avoiding devices that are overly aggressive or that encourage repetitive use on fragile facial skin, which could lead to long-term damage. For many, the more prudent choice remains seeking professional evaluation and treatment options tailored to their skin type and concerns.

As the market for at-home devices continues to grow, clinicians say education is essential. Consumers should understand that the level of injury created by professional microneedling is not easily replicated at home, and the potential consequences—especially for those with darker skin tones or active skin conditions—deserve careful consideration. For now, the safest path is to consult with a licensed professional, choose credible products, and adhere to conservative techniques if one chooses to proceed at all. The message from health professionals is clear: beauty trends can be enticing, but skin health should come first, with evidence-based practices and professional guidance guiding decisions.

The conversation over at-home microneedling is unlikely to fade soon, given the ease of access to devices and the visibility of social-media demonstrations. However, medical experts say the risk of lasting scarring or pigment changes is not theoretical for many users. For people who still want a glow from microneedling, the safest course remains professional evaluation and supervised treatment, followed by a careful, personalized aftercare plan.