River Cottage restaurant awarded one-star hygiene rating after mouldy cheese found and E. coli risk

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's flagship River Cottage restaurant in Musbury, Devon, has been handed a one-star hygiene rating after inspectors found a mouldy cheese in the kitchen and flagged a potential risk of an E. coli outbreak. The August 7 inspection by East Devon district council concluded that major improvements were needed to basic food safety controls. The one-star rating sits on a five-point scale used by the Food Standards Agency, with one star indicating significant improvements are required to protect public health.

Inspectors documented a string of concerns, including mouldy cheese and dairy products such as goat curd and yoghurt without dates on opened containers. They cautioned that raw foods were being vacuum-packed on a machine normally used for cooked foods, and noted the raw vacuum-packing unit was broken two weeks earlier. When asked where the raw products were vacuum-packed, staff reportedly said they were done on the cooked-food machine. The report also cited a lack of recent food hygiene training certificates and said all chefs should be inducted, trained and monitored. In addition, the site was found to have gaps in handwashing facilities, pest control and ventilation, with the overall assessment stating that cleanliness and the condition of facilities and buildings required further improvement. The inspector described an ongoing risk from E. coli, adding that some kitchen staff, described as “young chefs,” had little knowledge or understanding of the high risk posed by the bacteria.

The Rustle-back ethos of River Cottage—often described as a farm-to-fork experience and a venue for seasonal dining, cooking classes and other experiences rather than traditional dining—was not enough to offset the health concerns raised during the inspection. The report noted that the site would need to show clear improvements in record-keeping, food handling practices and staff supervision to address the identified risks. The restaurant, which promotes organic and locally sourced ingredients, operates under the River Cottage brand that Fearnley-Whittingstall popularized on his Channel 4 television series, which aired from 1999 to 2013 and included a three-part Devon-based season in 2012.

A River Cottage spokesperson said the business had taken the inspector’s concerns seriously and that actions were being implemented to rectify every point raised in the initial report. The firm added that inspectors would return soon to formally assess the improvements, with the aim of reinstating a higher rating. The restaurant emphasized its commitment to safety and to maintaining its broader mission of promoting sustainable, local food.

The rating scheme, which ranges from zero to five, requires establishments to display their current score in person and online. East Devon district council’s environmental health team oversees such inspections and subsequent re-inspections, and continues to monitor River Cottage’s progress as the two sides await the follow-up assessment.

Separately, the River Cottage brand has long been associated with educational cooking experiences and a strong emphasis on provenance. The restaurant’s current model centers on seasonal menus and hands-on classes, with a reputation for celebrating the Axe Valley’s local produce. Officials stressed that the safety issues highlighted in the inspection were not a condemnation of the restaurant’s entire operation but a signal that specific practices must change to ensure food prepared on the premises is safe for consumption. The council indicated that more work on hygiene controls, staff training and equipment maintenance would be expected before any improvement could be confirmed at the higher end of the rating scale.